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Improved Wiring for older Mopars. Note: Allpar does not take responsibility for the veracity of any information or opinions here, does not claim expertise, and is not responsible for any consequences. Business Objects Xi Desktop Intelligence Download Free.

Please proceed at your own risk. Stan Martin, P. E. I noticed recently that some of the engine compartment wiring harness connectors on my 1.

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Dodge Dart (2. 25 slant 6) were looking a little melted. After studying the wiring diagrams, I discovered that (per the Dodge Factory Service Manual) a 3. Nowadays, 6. 0 amps would be small and 1. I have been running a 6. I got the parts for this modification at NAPA and used crimp- type connectors so there was no soldering. The hardest part was hooking onto the ammeter - I tried to do it from below the dash but finally gave up and pulled the instrument panel. After adding the extra wiring, my car charges much better!

This wiring basically bypasses the normal engine compartment connectors to give a more direct, low- resistance path from the alternator, through the ammeter, to the battery. If you use a 6. 0 amp (or larger) alternator without this wiring, you are in danger of overloading the factory harness. Note: Rick Ehrenberg recommended the following wiring sizes: Alternator output rating. Wire gauge. Fusible Link. Under 5. 0 Ampere  1. Amps. 10. 14. 85 Amps.

Amps. 61. 0I am offering this as a helpful suggestion for fellow auto enthusiasts and hobbyists. Nothing in this description should be interpreted as offering engineering services to the public.

All responsibility for validity of wiring and vehicle safety rests with the vehicle owner. Do not undertake this project if you are not comfortable with assuming that responsibility. Parts. Wire: about 8 feet red, 1. Fusible link. This is a length of wire about 6 in. See chart above for size. This is a connector designed for tapping into an existing wire.

When you squeeze it around the existing wire, a little pointy contact pierces the insulation. The connector contains a female receptacle for plugging in your new connection. Tools. Wire/connector crimp tool.

Failure to do so may result in injury!! Basically, the extra wiring is: 1) A black wire from the alternator to the . Feed the wire directly through the firewall (I fed it through the grommet for the speedometer cable). Then a red wire from the + ammeter terminal, back through the firewall, through a fusible link, to the .

I used a squeeze- tap connector on the alternator feed just below the firewall connector, where it wasn't obvious, to tap into the alternator current before it passed through the offending connector. Then a bullet- type terminal for the black wire (plugs into the socket on the squeeze- tap), so it's still possible to remove the engine- side part of the harness without cutting anything. A ring- type connector was used at the ammeter. The fusible link was conveniently wired into the system at the starter relay. A ring- type connector was used to fasten one end of the fuse link to the large nut on the starter relay which connects to the positive battery terminal. A butt connector was used to connect the fuse link to the red wire. The red wire was then fed through the firewall to the ammeter, where a ring connector was used.

The fusible link is a safety factor and was present in the optional 6. This is to prevent dangerous overheating and possible fire if a short develops in this wiring, since this wiring connects directly to the battery. Do NOT add this wiring without it! This duplicates the factory stock wiring (per the 1. Dodge Dart factory wiring diagram) as close as reasonably possible.

A purist will note that this might cost you show points, if the judges notice the non- stock modifications. However, those astute judges would also likely notice that your car doesn't have the option code for the 6.

If you're in this for pure show, put a stock 3. But if you're using your Mopar for daily use and want it to charge .