Coaxial vent system of a pipe inside a pipe (generally 4"/7") the inside pipe is for exhaust while the outer pipe brings in outside air for combustion.

Sunvent Industries is your leader in foundation and exterior vents. Browse our site or contact us at 800.325.4115. Custom vent sizes are available. With a direct vent fireplace, the need for a flue is eliminated and pipes can be installed through the wall.

Venting a clothes dryer to the outside isn't an option - it's a requirement. An unvented dryer puts all kinds of fibers and lint into the air in the house that will.

Vent Covers - Register, Magnetic and Air Vent Covers at Ace Hardware. Air deflectors help direct the air flow from a vent in your home. These deflectors are designed to connect magnetically to metal floor, ceiling and wall registers and help warm or cool air more effectively through a room. Some even come with dust filters or can help direct airflow from a register positioned beneath a piece of furniture.

Another accessory used to help regulate room temperature or increase energy efficiency is air vent covers. Vent covers completely cover an air register to redirect forced air to other areas. They also help you seal off locations that don’t require temperature control, like the attic. You can purchase these register covers in various sizes, but some sheets can also be cut to size. Many magnetic vent covers can be painted or wallpapered to better fit the style of the room. For more information on air deflectors and covers visit your local Ace. You can also check out our conserving energy guide for other tips on improving energy efficiency in your home.

Offers a terrific selection of floor vent covers and air return vent covers at fantastic prices. Sunvent Industries is a custom metal air vent manufacturer. View our full line of extruded vents, or inquire about custom sizes and finishes.

How to Install a Dryer Vent. Find the best exit path for the 4- in. Minimum 1. 2 in. Figure B: Vent from a basement straight outside. Dryer on slab on grade with duct going straight out back or up and out.

Minimum 1. 2 in. Figure C: Vent out the roof. Dryer in an interior room with duct angling up through attic to roof. Whether you’re installing a new vent or upgrading an existing one, the first step is to determine where the duct will run.

This can be a bit of a challenge. Keep in mind these rules of thumb. The shorter the distance and fewer the turns the better. Use no more than 2. For example, a dryer with a 9. Dryer manufacturers’ recommendations supersede this, so if you have to make a longer run, read the owner’s manual.

If possible, position your dryer along an exterior wall to keep the vent as short as possible. Figures A, B and C show the three most common paths from the dryer to the exterior. Vent a dryer through the roof only as a last resort. Cleaning lint buildup from roof vents is difficult, and nesting birds and squirrels often find roof vent caps irresistible. Check with your appliance dealer or local building inspector for recommendations about the best roof vent cap to use.

Avoid windows (Photo 1) and outdoor obstructions like the electrical service entry. The bottom of the vent must be at least 1.

Measure the length of the run, note the bends, then buy the duct required. If everything looks good outside, go back inside, mark the vent location, and plan the duct route (Photo 1). Buy enough straight duct and fittings to complete the job, including an outdoor cap. Use either galvanized steel (our choice) or aluminum duct, but don’t mix parts. Installation techniques – outdoors. Photo 2: Drill a test hole in the rim joist. Mark the center of the rim joist and drill a test hole with a 1/4- in.

Locate the hole outside and check for obstructions. Photo 3: Adjust the hole to fit the siding. Shift the hole so the top of the vent cap rests on the high point of the lap siding. Pull the vent cap and duct apart to make measuring easier.

Photo 4: Drill the vent hole in the siding. Bore a 4- 1/4 in. Hold the drill level and steady. Pull the drill back frequently to clear the sawdust and let the drill motor cool. Photo 5: Drill through the rim joist. Stop and pry out siding and sheathing from the saw as you go.

Then continue your cut through the rim joist. Photo 6: Install the vent cap. Insert the vent and screw the cap to the house (predrill screw holes). Push foam backer rod into deep gaps, then caulk all around with acrylic caulk.

Drill a pilot hole so you can see exactly where the vent will go outside (Photo 2). If the hole is a little low or the cap doesn’t sit in the best position on the siding, it’s not too late to adjust it (Photo 3). If it’s really wrong, you can easily fill the hole and start over at a different location. If you’re cutting through a finished wall, open up a small section and check for wiring, ductwork and other hazards before drilling. Boring a 4- 1/4 in. Take your time. A bimetal hole saw is easiest to use, because it’ll chew through an occasional nail without dulling and cut cleanly through vinyl or aluminum siding.

Hold your drill firmly with two hands (Photo 4) and brace it against your leg if possible. Don’t lock the trigger on.

If the drill tilts to one side, it may bind and jerk. Pull out the saw frequently to keep it cooler and reduce binding, and then go back into the hole. Standard hole saws are 1- 1/2 to 1- 3/4 in. Screw the cap down evenly—if one corner is tighter than the others, the vent flapper won’t seal.

Vent caps with a single flap and a large hood (Photo 6) work the best, but if you want a lower profile, you can use a cap that has several narrower flaps. But clean it more often; the flaps trap more lint. How to Mount a Vent Cap on Vinyl Siding. There are two good ways to install a vent through vinyl siding. The first is to install a vinyl surface mounting block (shown here) that fits over the existing siding.

You may need to scribe and trim the edges to precisely fit your siding profile. Fasten the surface mounting block to the house with screws, but remember to drill slightly oversize holes through the vinyl to allow for siding movement. The second method is to remove a section of siding and install a special vinyl mounting block (not shown) against the sheathing. Cut the siding to fit around it. Both are available from vinyl siding dealers. How to Make the Vent Hole in Stucco and Brick Veneer. Getting through stucco and brick requires different techniques and tools than for wood and vinyl.

You’ll need a masonry bit with a hammer drill for your pilot hole. Then trace a 4- 1/2 in. Break out the masonry with a cold chisel. Snip the wire mesh back if you’re chipping out stucco. Then drill through the wood sheathing and framing with a 4- 1/4 in. Salem Witch Trials Hysteria Theories Of Human.

Wear leather gloves- the cut metal edges are sharp. Photo 8: Close the seam on the vent. Align the seam edges of the duct. Then, working from one end, push the edges down slightly as you force them together. Photo 9: Tape the elbow joints. Start at the dryer and insert the crimped end of the first elbow into the first straight section.

Tape the joints with metal foil tape. Photo 1. 0: Attach the first vent section. Slide the first fitting onto the dryer and push the dryer against the wall. Measure, cut and assemble the other duct sections. Photo 1. 1: Install the remaining vent sections. Slide the last elbow onto the straight section coming up the wall, then push the crimped end of the elbow into the duct cap section.

Photo 1. 2: Secure the vent to the wall with straps. Anchor the duct to walls or ceilings every 6 to 8 ft. Loop the strap around the duct; don’t screw the strap to it.

Go back inside and caulk around the duct on the inside of the rim joist. You can use the plastic trim ring (included with the vent cap) for a neater appearance. Now you’re ready to run the duct from the dryer to the vent cap. Push the lower elbow onto the dryer and the upper elbow onto the vent cap, and then measure the distance between the two, including the overlap at each end. Cut, assemble and tape the straight pieces (Photos 7 – 9). Straight duct is available in various lengths up to 5 ft. Be sure to cut the pieces to length with tin snips before snapping the seam together (Photo 8).

Elbows can be twisted to form any angle, and with two or three of them you can generally snake your way around any obstacle. Begin assembly from either end. You can always shift the dryer slightly if you cut the final section a little short or long. However, orientation is critical when joining sections end to end. The crimped end always slides into the fitting above so that the exhaust flows smoothly from one section to the next.

Push the final elbow into the straight piece that’s connected to the cap. This is especially true of standard cloth or plastic duct tape. Metal foil tape is more expensive, but it will last longer. Still, any vent run longer than a few feet will require more permanent support. Strap it to the wall or ceiling framing with plastic or metal pipe strap to keep it rigid and hold it together for the long run (Photo 1. Finally, plug the dryer in, turn it on and check outside to make sure the vent flap is opening. A note on cleaning: Lint buildup reduces dryer efficiency, which means clothes take longer to dry.

Check the vent cap frequently and brush out lint. At least once a year, snake a vacuum hose into the duct to clean it. Tapping on the duct while you do this will help knock off lint that’s stuck to the sides and joints. To avoid fires, vacuum lint from around dryer drums, burners and motors at the bottom of the cabinet. CAUTION! Wear leather gloves when cutting ducts.

The metal is sharp, and even brushing your hand lightly against an edge can produce a surprisingly large cut. Install a Nonclogging Dryer Vent Hood.

Our appliance expert, Costas Stavrou, gets lots of service calls for dryers that take too long to dry a load of clothes.